A Chettinad Mansion, Taken Whole

Overview

A century ago, the Nattukottai Chettiar trading families filled a few dozen villages in southern Tamil Nadu with some of the grandest houses in India — teak brought from Burma, tiles from Athangudi, marble and glass from Europe. Many still stand, and a handful have been beautifully restored.

This journey takes one of those houses for a small group. Days are spent in the lanes, workshops and temples around it; evenings belong to the courtyard and the kitchen, where Chettinad's celebrated cuisine is cooked the way it is at home.

Day by day

1. Day 1

   Into the mansion

   Met at Madurai or Tiruchirappalli airport for a private drive of around two hours into Chettinad. Lunch and time to settle into the house. In the late afternoon, a walk through the lanes of Kanadukathan with a local guide, past the great mansions of the merchant families. Dinner at the house.

   Overnight · The mansion
2. Day 2

   Tiles, antiques and the kitchen

   A morning at an Athangudi tile workshop, where the region's famous floor tiles are still made by hand. On to Karaikudi's antique lanes, full of carved doors, brass and enamelware. In the afternoon, an unhurried session with the house cooks — the spice pastes and slow gravies of Chettinad cooking — before dinner at the house table.

   Overnight · The mansion
3. Day 3

   Temples and weaving

   An early visit to the rock-cut Karpaga Vinayagar temple at Pillaiyarpatti. Later, the weavers of Kandangi cotton and their boldly checked saris. The afternoon is free to enjoy the house. A farewell banana-leaf dinner in the courtyard.

   Overnight · The mansion
4. Day 4

   Departure

   A slow breakfast, then a private transfer to the airport.

A sample itinerary. The order of days may change with local calendars, weather and opening times; the final itinerary is confirmed before you travel.